Three Pheasant Species, Three Completely Different Mounts
Pheasants are stunning birds—iridescent feathers, dramatic coloring, long tails. But not all pheasants are the same, and mounting them requires understanding which species you actually have. Ring-necked pheasants are what most hunters kill in the U.S. But if you harvested a Golden pheasant or Lady Amherst pheasant, the mounting strategy changes. I'll walk you through the species differences, how to preserve feathers in the field, and what these mounts actually cost. For more details, see our taxidermy pricing. For more details, see our pheasant cost breakdown.
Ring-Necked Pheasant (Phasianus colchicus): What most U.S. hunters pursue. Males have the iridescent green head, white neck ring, and long tail that everyone recognizes. Females are mottled brown. These are sturdy birds that mount well.
Golden Pheasant (Chrysolophus pictus): If you hunted this (captive farms, mostly), you're looking at a different color palette: golden crest, scarlet underparts, complex pattern. Smaller than ring-necks. Requires more delicate handling of the specialized plumage.
Lady Amherst Pheasant (Chrysolophus amherstiae): Even more colorful than golden pheasants—blue-green, white, black, and scarlet patterns. Extremely delicate feathering. This is a specialist bird for experienced taxidermists only.
The basic mounting principles apply to all three, but the finishing work differs significantly. Make sure your taxidermist knows which species you have.
The Mount Types
Standing Mount (Natural Alert Pose)
The most common style: the bird stands on a wooden base in a natural, alert posture. The chest is prominent, the head is upright, the tail displays naturally. This works beautifully for ring-necked males because the color pattern shows. Cost: $275-$475 depending on the taxidermist and base complexity.
Standing mounts work in living rooms, dens, offices, game rooms. They take up maybe two square feet of floor or shelf space. You can display a pair (male and female) on the same base for visual interest.
Flying Mount (In-Flight)
Wings extended, suspended from a mount or branch. This is a dramatic, eye-catching pose that captures the moment of flush. Flying mounts require expert work to position wings realistically without distorting the feathers. Cost: $350-$700. Requires ceiling height and space—these aren't small displays.
Perched Mount (On a Branch)
The bird stands on a branch or log in a natural pose. This creates depth and shows the bird's proportions naturally. Perched mounts often include habitat elements: moss, rocks, foliage. Cost: $300-$600. These are conversation pieces and look stunning in rustic or lodge-style rooms.
Tail Display Mount
A specialized mounting that emphasizes the long, iridescent tail feathers. The bird is positioned to display the tail as dramatically as possible. This works particularly well for golden and Lady Amherst pheasants where the tail pattern is part of the beauty. Cost: $250-$400. Requires understanding of feather positioning and light.
Field Care: How to Destroy a Pheasant Mount Before You Get Home
Here's where most people mess up. You harvest a beautiful pheasant, and then you pack it wrong, and by the time it reaches the taxidermist, half the feathers are matted or damaged. This is preventable.
- Don't freeze it tight in a plastic bag. That's the most common mistake. Wrap it loosely in cloth first, then freeze if you need to store it. Plastic against feathers locks in moisture and causes matting and discoloration.
- Keep the wings clean. If the bird has blood on it, gently rinse with cool water and pat dry with a soft cloth. Don't rub. Handle the wings by the body, not by the feathers.
- Keep the head intact. Don't strip the hide off the neck—that's for a rug mount, not a shoulder or standing mount. Bring the whole head and neck to the taxidermist and let them decide how to cap it.
- Transport carefully. Use a sturdy box, line it with soft cloth, and pack the bird so it doesn't move around during transport. A loose pheasant bouncing in a cardboard box will get mangled.
- Deliver quickly. Within 48 hours is ideal in cool weather. Longer than that and decomposition starts affecting the hide and feathers.
According to Field & Stream's articles on game bird preparation, field handling is where taxidermy begins. Poor field care creates problems that even a master taxidermist can't fully overcome. For more details, see our bird taxidermy guide.
Choosing a Pheasant Taxidermist
You want someone who does bird work regularly, not someone who "does a little of everything." Ask to see examples of pheasant work—specifically ring-necked pheasants if that's what you have. Look at eye placement (should look natural and alert), feather arrangement (should be smooth, not matted or ruffled), and overall proportions (the head-to-body ratio should match living birds).
Ask about their feather care process during preparation. Ask what they do if feathers get damaged. Ask if they've worked with golden or Lady Amherst pheasants if that's relevant. Check the TaxidermyHobbyist.com directory for licensed professionals in your region. Most reputable shops are listed there.
Turnaround time should be 8-16 weeks. If a shop promises faster, they're probably rushing. Pricing should be transparent and competitive—call around and compare three shops before deciding.
Costs: Base Prices and What Affects Them
Standing mount (natural pose): $275-$475
Flying mount (in-flight): $350-$700
Perched mount (on branch): $300-$600
Tail display mount: $250-$400
What changes these numbers:
- Taxidermist experience: A master with competition credentials charges premium rates ($600-$900+). A newer taxidermist might charge $250-$350 for the same mount. You get what you pay for.
- Base/habitat: Simple wooden base: $275. Detailed habitat with moss, rocks, plants: add $100-$300. Carved base with lighting: add $200+.
- Damage repair: A molted bird or one with damaged feathers requires restoration work. Budget an extra $100-$200 if the bird isn't in pristine condition.
- Geographic location: Urban shops charge more. Rural shops charge less. Call around.
- Rush turnaround: If you need it in 4-6 weeks instead of 12-16, expect 25-50% additional cost.
The Timeline and Process
When you deliver your pheasant: The taxidermist examines it for damage and feather condition. They'll ask what pose you want, what base style you prefer, and whether you want habitat elements. A good taxidermist spends time understanding what you're after, not just nodding and taking your bird.
The actual work (8-16 weeks): The taxidermist carefully preserves the skin and feathers, creates a custom body form (usually foam nowadays), and positions the bird. This is the skilled work—the difference between a good mount and a bad one shows up here. Eyes have to sit right. Feathers have to lay naturally. The pose has to match the species.
Final finishing: Eye placement (critical—this is where bad work shows immediately), nostril detail (the tiny openings in the beak matter), feather adjustment, and any habitat elements. The base gets its finishing work. Hardware gets installed. This is where a decent mount becomes exceptional. You may also want to explore our turkey taxidermy. You may also want to explore our waterfowl taxidermy.
Long-Term Care: Keeping Your Mount Looking Alive
- Dust carefully. Use a soft brush or very gentle compressed air. Never use harsh cloths or scrub. Feathers are delicate.
- Keep it out of direct sun. UV light fades iridescent feathers fast. Position away from south-facing windows. If you really want direct sunlight, use UV-protective glass.
- Control humidity. Pheasant feathers are sensitive to moisture. Keep your space at 40-60% humidity. High humidity promotes mold; low humidity makes feathers brittle and prone to breaking.
- Keep it away from heat sources. Heating vents, fireplaces, hot lights—all of these dry out feathers and fade colors.
- Protect from insects. Dermestid beetles and moths eat feathers. If your mount is in a room with other taxidermy or natural history specimens, use display cases or sealed cabinets.
- Don't clean it yourself. If it gets dirty, take it to the taxidermist who mounted it. Professional restoration is the right approach.
A properly maintained pheasant mount lasts 50+ years. The iridescent colors stay vibrant. The feathers stay intact. This is a decades-long investment.
Where to Display It
Pheasant mounts work in hunting lodges, game rooms, home offices, entryways, and commercial spaces. A standing or perched mount is elegant enough for a study. A flying mount is a dramatic centerpiece for a room with high ceilings. A pair of ring-necked pheasants (male and female on the same base) creates visual interest without overwhelming the space.
Museums like the Smithsonian feature game bird collections that include pheasants. If you want to see how professional displays handle them, visit a natural history museum in your region.
Real Questions About Pheasant Mounting
Can I ship my bird? Yes. Pack it carefully in a box with soft cloth padding. Cushion the wings so they don't move during transport. Include detailed notes about any damage or special requests. Ask your taxidermist about their shipping process before you send it.
What if the feathers are damaged? Experienced taxidermists work with birds in less-than-perfect condition. They can reposition feathers, hide damaged areas, or conduct minor restoration. Tell them about the damage upfront so they can quote the work accurately.
How long does it last? A properly maintained pheasant mount lasts 50+ years. UV protection, humidity control, and pest prevention are the key factors. Professional work with quality materials extends the lifespan even further.
Can you make one without the actual bird? Some taxidermists create life-size models from reference photos, but this costs $800-$1,500+ and the results are never quite as accurate as working from the actual specimen. Having the real bird is always preferable.
How much wall space do I need? Standing mounts: 1-2 square feet. Flying mounts: 3-4 square feet including the base and clearance. Measure your space before committing to a flying mount.
Last updated: March 25, 2026